Q. What's the difference between Pine and Aspen?
Q. I just bought an unfinished bed from you. What do I do now?
Q. What kind of finish do you use?
Q. What should I look for when buying log furniture?
Q. Where does the wood from your furniture come from?
Q. Should I buy a bed from my cousin who makes log furniture in his garage?
Q. I'd like my husband to build our log furniture. Do you have any suggestions?
Q.What's the difference between aspen and pine?
A. Pine log furniture is the classic log furniture. Pieces are fairly straight and predictable. Pine furniture is a tan color with deeper brown and red tones in it. Aspen log furniture is much darker and lacks the red tones. Pieces are curvy and buglines are more pronounced. Aspen furniture has more character to it.
A. Aspen Creek furniture is guaranteed to be free from structural defects in manufacturing for a period of 10 years for indoor furniture and 5 years for outdoor furniture. Please be aware that all log furniture is naturally subject to the process of "checking". Checking and knots are not considered defects. If, at any time during the 5 or 10 year period, problems or defects occur that render the product incapable of performing its function, Aspen Creek will repair or replace the affected piece at no charge to the customer. Please be aware that although it is rare, all log furniture has the possibility of containing pests that resided in the logs before they were harvested. We take every precaution to ensure all pests are removed from the furniture by air drying and treating the unfinished wood with a professional pest and mold control called Timbor. If you find a log or piece of lumber that still contains these pests, we will replace it free of charge. We will not be liable for consequential damages from these pests, however. (This guarantee is only available for finished furniture.)
Q. I've noticed you have unfinished furniture for sale at approximately 25% off of regular prices. What exactly does "unfinished" mean?
A. "Unfinished" means that we've done all the hard work and now you can save some money by doing the easy stuff yourself. All you have to do to finish your bed is give it a light sanding and apply a finish (we recommend Benjamin Moore water-based polyurethane). Some easy assembly may also be required. We've already done the frustrating, messy work like joints, rough sanding, and treating the wood with a preserver and insect killer.
Q. I just bought an unfinished bed from you. What do I do now?
A. Sanding is the next step. A palm sander is best but just using your hands and sandpaper works too. Use a fine grit (100 or 150) and do a light sanding over all areas of the furniture. Your furniture may have a bit of a white residue on it. That's the preserver and bug killer. It can be removed by sanding or wiped clean with a damp cloth. If your furniture has a table top, it needs a second sanding using a 220 grit sandpaper for optimum results. Make sure you follow the grain when sanding. When you've finished, wipe down your furniture with a damp cloth. After following the provided assembly instructions, it's time to apply the finish. We recommend you use Benjamin Moore water-based polyurethane, but any kind of finish will do. Follow the manufacturer's directions. As you apply the finish, always remember to go back over the areas you've already done and brush over any drips or runs. Finish tends to pool in bug lines or holes on the logs and then drip down. Always brush with the grain.
Q. What kind of finish do you use?
A. Only the finest Benjamin Moore water-based polyurethane. It is environmentally friendly, durable, and will not yellow like most traditional oil based finished.
Q. What should I look for when buying log furniture?
A. Hand peeled, one of a kind crafted pieces with mortise and tenon construction are superior in every way. A lifetime guarantee from an established builder is also important. Make sure the furniture is solid, especially around the joints. Know that most log furniture that is cheaper in price is usually made of milled logs. These logs are uniform in shape and don’t retain any bark versus hand-crafted furniture which retains bark, knots, bug lines, ect. Hand-crafted furniture is the one-of-a kind furniture that guarantees your piece of furniture will be unique.
Q. Where does the wood from your furniture come from?
A. The short answer is: other people’s cast offs. We do not cut down live trees for our furniture. We use only trees that have been cut down by the Forest Service, dead-standing, beetle-killed, or downed trees. We also use “waste” from lumber mills.
Q. Should I buy a bed from my cousin who makes log furniture in his garage?
A. Often somebody will build one bed as a hobby and try to sell it in the newspaper. You don’t want somebody’s first or even tenth bed. Wood changes seasonally as do building conditions. One bed built successfully in the summer could be a disaster in the winter. There are a lot of variables including moisture content, humidity, temperature, age, insects, harvest season etc. These variables change over the life of the bed as well. Just beware of your friend’s uncle’s cousin who builds beds in his garage. Experience counts for a lot, and the proper facilities provide consistency and quality control.
Q. I'd like my husband to build our log furniture. Do you have any suggestions?
A. Do the math first. You will need the following tools: table saw, drill press, heavy duty drill, tenon cutter(s), mitre saw, band saw, belt sander, palm sander, drawknife, a space to work in and all the usual measuring and finishing devices. Even with the proper tools your first bed will take at least 25 hours. If your husband makes $20 an hour, that bed will cost him $500 in lost wages, not to mention the money he'll spend buying special tools and supplies. In two years your bed will likely be a wobbly mess. Experience is vital when building log furniture. If you are undeterred, or want to build enough things to make the tool investment worthwhile we are developing a DVD that will help keep waste and frustration to a minimum.
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